A city of astonishing contrasts, a huge metropolis where opulent wealth and desperate poverty live side by side, Johannesburg is the intriguing, dynamic heart of this turbulent country. If you want to see the real South Africa - and try to understand it - Jo'burg has to be on your itinerary.

Jo'burg, Jozi, eGoli or 'the city of gold' (never Johannesburg) is by far the largest city in South Africa. It's brash, fast-growing and often ugly, but it has got wealth, energy and a beautiful climate. If you take reasonable precautions and listen to the locals, you can enjoy it in safety.

When To Go

Summer can be uncomfortably hot, especially in the lowveld. Higher-altitude areas are pleasantly warm over summer, but the mountains are prone to rain and mist. The northeastern regions can be annoyingly humid, but swimming on the east coast is a year-round proposition. Spring is the best time for wildflowers in the Northern Cape and Western Cape provinces. Winters are mild everywhere except in the highest country, where there are frosts and occasional snowfalls.

Holiday-makers stream out of the cities from mid-December to late January: resorts and national parks are heavily booked and prices on the coast can more than double. School holidays in April, July and September can clog up beaches and national parks, but you can dodge the outdoors crowd in favour of some of the great arts festivals held in September and October.

Street Crime

There are enough horror stories emanating from Johannesburg to make caution essential, especially at night. Use common sense, be aware of your surroundings and do not advertise your wealth or tourist status. Be sure to heed any local advice regarding safety.

If you're driving, make sure your doors are locked, and when you're waiting at traffic lights leave enough room in front of you to drive away if necessary. Running a red light is not illegal if you're in reasonable fear of assault.